Thank You and a very Happy New Year!

As 2023 draws to an end, I have another opportunity to thank many people.

This has been SGWT’s biggest year yet. More tours, more guests and more personal pilgrimages than ever before. And we turned 10 years old!

Thank you to my amazing team for the dedication to our guests, to the history and for keeping so many special stories alive. You care for people past and present and that shows in the amazing reviews we receive.

Thank you to my guests of 2023 for putting your trust in us.

Thank you to everyone who follows along on social media, your likes and kind comments mean a lot.

See you in 2024 for even more!

Sophie x

25th December – Le Touret Military Cemetery

Private Percy Henry Huggins and Lance Serjeant Thomas Edward Gregory, both Hertfordshire Regiment who were shot and killed by a German sniper Christmas Day 1914.  Less than 5 miles northeast of where they lay, men were out of their trenches fraternising in No Mans Land with the enemy.  In all 78 men would lose their lives on Christmas Day 1914 on the Western Front, 25 of them are buried or commemorated at Le Touret Military Cemetery and Memorial.

Submitted by Paul Colbourne SGWT Battlefield Guide.

25th December – Post 25 – 1914 Christmas Truce

Eugenie Brooks, SGWT Battlefield Guide shares the following about her paternal grandfather Sgt John William Brooks DCM MM 1st Bn Rifle Brigade, Machine Gun Section. He took part in the 1914 Christmas Day Truce when in trenches at Ploegsteert Wood, south of the town of Ypres. In 1965 he wrote out his memoirs of the Great War and she uses his piece about the Christmas truce when she takes clients to the football memorial near Ploegsteert when on a battlefield tour.

Next day was Christmas Day 1914. There was a lot of shouting across the lines between the Germans and our boys; also some music from the German trenches. One tune put me in mind of our own national anthem; the music was so much like it. 

 The Germans I think were the first to show their heads above the parapet without being fired on. Then our own boys began to show themselves above the trench, then it was all clear to come out and fraternise. 

 They had the whole day at this get together; each side took full advantage to the chance to pick up their dead who had laid out in front in some cases for a month or more. It was a pathetic sight to see our own dead being brought in, one to each man. They were able to do this owing to the bodies being frozen stiff; they were carried in some cases just like dead mutton. They were brought back and laid out in a row till they were taken away to be identified and buried. It seems pathetic that two days after giving them a bashing and driving them out of the wood that the Germans and British soldiers were able to shake hands, exchange presents, tins of jam etc. also to show one another photos of their respective families at home. 

 In the afternoon a Brigadier of ours showed up. He had come to have a look round while there was no fighting going on. Anyhow it was the first time I had seen an officer above the rank of Colonel in the front line. His name I believe was Haldane. 

The truce ended in our part of the line next morning at daybreak. It seems that the East Lancs on our left had a rough time from the jerries shortly before Christmas and had some losses. Anyhow they fixed on the enemy when they showed up early Boxing Day. In any case there came an official instruction to the troops to cease fraternising so everybody kept under cover. 

24th December – Post 24 - Battle for the Hedgerows - Normandy

You can read as much as you like, but until you see something with your own eyes, it doesn't always make sense.  The bocage in Normandy, is one of those examples. 

 The solid mass of soil and tree roots, narrow tracks and thick undergrowth that make up the bocage must be walked on a tour of Normandy. This really helps one understand the tactical and operational issues facing commanders. 

23rd December – Post 23 - Delville Wood, Somme

Quite possibly my favourite battlefield location.  Why?  One can wander the rides of the wood alone and enjoy peace and quiet to be present in the moment.  At the same time however, if you stand still for a moment the wood feels alive.  You can stand at one side of the wood and see the entry of the 9th Scottish Division troops.  Stand by South African Brigade HQ and imagine the officers trying to make sense of this tangled mess.  Conjure the images of the fierce hand to hand combat, the artillery storm - just stand still and you can see it all. 

Throughout July, August and September 1916, Delville Wood became an attritional killing ground. 

 ]The 9th (Scottish) Division had 7,517 casualties from 1 to 20 July, of which the 1st (South African) Infantry Brigade lost 2,536 men. Many Divisions were thrown into the battle here including the 3rd Division, 5th, 17th, 8th, 14th, 33rd and 24th. 

 There would be thousands of casualties and the wood would become infamous to many survivors, including my Great Grandfather, 2/Lt Middleton

 

Delville Wood

22nd December – Post 22 – White Cliffs of Dover

A familiar site for hundreds of thousands of passengers coming into Dover each year, the White Cliffs are symbolic, immortalised in song and home to at least two different battlefield sites.

 Inside the cliffs beneath the magnificent Dover Castle, a network of tunnels existed and were utilised to plan Operation Dynamo.  This operation planned to lift as many soldiers from the beaches of Dunkirk at the end of May 1940, taking them from the clutches of the encircling German advance.  Under the leadership of Admiral Sir Bertram Ramsay, a staggering 338,226 men aboard 861 lifted from the beaches.

 Just a month later, the skies above the white cliffs would be filled with RAF and Luftwaffe fighters battling for control of the airspace - the Battle of Britain. 

 The White Cliffs are a reminder of these dark days but remain a lovely welcome home sight, just like in 1940.

 

21st December – Post 21 - Isandlwana, South Africa

On 22 January 1879, thousands of warriors of the Zulu Kingdom fell upon 1,800 British, colonial and native troops, inflicting a devastating defeat.

Stand upon the high ground here and you can see almost all of the battlefield. Imagine the flow of Zulus as they attack and overrun the bright redcoats of Queen Victoria's army. 

With a Zulu guide by your side recounting the stories of what unfolded that day, this beautiful peaceful landscape comes alive with history. 

20th December – Post 20 – Talbot House

Talbot House in Poperinge in Northern Belgium was opened in December 1915 as a rest centre for British and Commonwealth Troops transiting through the railhead to and from frontline duty on the Ypres Salient on the Western Front. The house affectionately known as ‘Toc H’ or the ‘Everyman’s Club’, was a refuge where soldiers were invited to ‘come in and forget about the war’, where men and women of the services could sit and read a book, have a chat, a sing song or have a cup of tea. Christian nature would be encouraged, if needed to ‘Meet the Padre’ the enigmatic Chaplain 4th Class Philip’ Tubby’ Clayton, whose compassionate ear and ready wit was a soothing balm for those in nervous or mental turmoil. Upon entering Talbot House was a reminder notice, ‘ All Rank abandon ye who enter here’. All were treated equally where the lowly, but equally useful Private would rub shoulders with high-ranking officers. Where visitors may choose calm reflection in the upper room chapel, or to take the air in a garden, a moment of peace before whatever they may have to face, often an uncertain future.

 After the guns fell silent on the Western Front on November 11th 1918 Talbot House was surplus to the Army’s need, and was phased down on the run up to Christmas Day closing just after. In the spirit and footsteps of the soldiers of the Great War, Talbot House is now a guesthouse and living museum where a warm welcome and a cup of tea greets visitors and Pilgrims to this onetime ‘Haven in Hell’.

Francis Mullen, SGWT Battlefield Guide has chosen Talbot House as a very special place not only as a place to visit, but “a place where I have happy and fond memories as a Volunteer Warden, helping to run the house and yes pouring endless cups of tea for thirsty visitors and pilgrims.”

19th December – Post 19 – Warsaw

Warsaw is a wonderful European city to visit for so many different reasons but if you love your 2WW history, it is a must visit location.  By 1945, it is said that 90% of the city's buildings had been completely destroyed. In spite of this horrendous figure, there are still fragments of the capital's bloody existence through the Second World War, to be seen.  This photo shows where part of the ghetto wall once stood - a stark reminder of the suffering that thousands endured during Nazi occupation.

18th December – Post 18 - Clearing at Compiegne

Two seminal moments in history occurred here, 22 years apart.

The Armistice was signed in Marshall Foch's train carriage in 1918 putting an end to the Great War hostilities at 11:00 on 11th November.  Just two decades later, an excitable Adolph Hitler would arrive in Compiegne in June 1940 to enjoy witnessing the reading of the Armistice conditions.  The following day the Armistice was signed by Generalfeldmarschall Keitel and General Huntzinger.

17th December – Post 17 – Devil Dog Fountain, Belleau

Across the road from the Aisne-Marne American Cemetery sits the village of Belleau and within the village there is a courtyard of an old chateau that contains a fountain. The cemetery contains the final resting place of 2,289 Marines from the 4th Marine Brigade who fought in and around the woods of Belleau in early June 1918. It is said the Germans facing the Marines called them ‘Devil Dogs’ due to their ferocity and fighting ability. To this day Marines and former Marines visit to drink from the fountain and pay their respects to those who fought in the area and never came home.   It is quite a moving sight to see these guys take part in that old tradition as it clearly means so much to the United States Marine Corps

Submitted by Paul Colbourne, SGWT Battlefield Guide

16th December – Post 16 – Vancouver Corner, Ypres

At the beginning of the Second Battle of Ypres, 22nd April 1915, the Germans released a massive amount of chlorine gas.

The green grey cloud floated into French lines, held by their colonial troops. Faced with a new terrifying weapon they had never encountered before, those that were not overwhelmed by the toxic cloud, fled in horror.  This then created a huge gap in the Allied line that needed to be filled before the Germans realised and rushed through it themselves.

Canadian and British troops were flung into the gap, extending their lines to prevent a total collapse and the loss of Ypres.  Just two days later, yet more gas was released, but the line held.

The Brooding Soldier, a Canadian with his head bowed and arms reversed

15th December – Post 15 – Mametz Wood

Wales Online described the name Mametz Wood "perhaps like that of Aberfan or Senghenydd, is embedded deep in the Welsh psyche, immediately conjuring up images of needless loss of life, bravery, chaos and self-sacrifice".

Some battlefield locations have become synonymous with the service of certain regiments or that of sacrifice from a particular region or country.

At the Mametz Wood on the Somme, the striking Red Dragon tells us immediately that the 38th (Welsh) Division were thrust into action here.

On the 7th July the Welshmen went into attack, their mission to capture the wood and secure the opportunity to get to the open ground beyond. They went in at 08:30 down an exposed slope into heavy machine gun fire and artillery. A second attack reinforced by the 10th South Wales Borderers also failed and a planned third attempt was called off as it was decided it would be futile to continue.

Standing by the Dragon allows you to visualise this action unfolding.

 Sophie says "Mametz Wood is one place I find very difficult to enter. It holds the darkness and the trauma of what went on there in 1916". 

14th December – Post 14 – Colonel Driant's Command Post, Verdun

There are some locations that we will visit that are famous because of some gallant actions, some legendary stories and some that are important because of their strategic position and our overall understanding of the battle.  Here at the Bois des Caures, all of the above can be discovered. 

This is Colonel Emile Driant's Command Post. He is in command of the 56th and 59th Chasseurs,

On 21st February 1916 at 07:12, the German artillery bombardment began, 80,000 shells would fall here.  It would not cease until 16:00 that afternoon when German infantry made their way forward through a snowstorm.  These men are lightly equipped as they do not expect much in the way of opposition, but they are to be shocked at the level of resistance they meet. 

Driant's men withstood withering artillery fire, bloody hand to hand combat and the use of flamethrowers until it was just too much. On the afternoon of 22nd with just 80 men left, Driant orders a withdrawal to take place in three groups. He would leave last.  Setting off across the road, Driant stops to see to a wounded man.  As he stands back up, he is hit in the head with a shrapnel splinter and is killed. 

Visiting the command post and the trench systems around it gives you the opportunity to explore this story in full and to start your understanding of the Verdun battlefield. 

13th December – Post 13 - Memorial Spire International Bomber Command Centre, Lincoln

If Norfolk and Suffolk were the home of the Eighth Air Force then Lincolnshire was the home of Bomber Command. The Spire overlooks Lincoln Cathedral which was used as a sighting point for returning crews.

 Their nighttime raids would take the fight to Nazi Germany but at a heavy cost. Of the 125,000 Aircrew who served over 44% were killed, the highest rate of attrition of any serving unit.

 Submitted by Paul Colbourne, SGWT Battlefield Guide

11th December - Post 11 - Watling Street, Somme

Using first hand accounts, trench maps and technology, our fantastic guides can really bring a piece of ground alive. This image taken by team member Nick Saunders shows a view taken from Watling Street looking towards the junction with Sunken Lane on the Somme battlefield.

Many visitors are familiar with the story of the Lancashire Fusiliers who tunnelled from their lines to the Sunken Lane prior to going over the top on the 1st of July 1916.

Less well known is that the 1st Battalion the Hampshire Regiment followed in the second wave. Their route took them diagonally across a shallower sunken lane named Watling Street on the trench maps.

The 1st Bn The Hampshire Regiment suffered 585 casualties including 100% of the officers. One officer who was wounded but survived to tell the tale was Lt Shearn. This is his abridged account of the 1st of July and the link to Watling Street.

          As soon as I got out of the assembly trench I discovered that the story that there would be nothing left alive in the German lines was a myth.  We went into literally a hail of machine gun fire.  I could hear the ‘smack’ of the bullets as they hit the ground or sandbags or whatever.  I got hit on my prismatic compass which I carried on the left front of my belt.  I felt the impact of the bullet. I did not however, feel pain or unwell.  I thought it as well to look and see what damage had been done so I opened my belt and pulled up my tunic to see.  There was a small and very neat hole under my left ribs from which a little blood was coming.  I debated briefly whether I needed medical attention but decided that as I felt so unaffected by the bullet wound I had better get on with the war.  I make no claim that I am in any way brave but I do distinctly remember feeling some surprise and indeed satisfaction that I did not feel afraid.  I did my belt up and hurried to catch up with my platoon.

Map showing Watling Street and the junction of Sunken Lane

 

10th December - Post 10 – Sinking of HMS Repulse & Prince of Wales

The 3rd Day of war with Japan the Battleship, HMS The Prince of Wales, and the Battle Cruiser HMS Repulse, were sunk off the coast of Malaya. Part of Force Z, which had sailed from Singapore and was commanded at sea by Admiral Sir Tom Phillips (Known as Tom Thumb due to his 5ft 4 inch stature.)

Phillips was trusted by Prime Minister Winston Churchill, and both had a strong belief that Fortress Singapore could be defended from an inferior Japanese Army by a strong Naval deterrent force.

Philipp’s signalled. ‘We are out looking for trouble, and no doubt we shall find it.’  Prophetic words that would prove disastrous for him personally. It is likely he was ignorant of events at Pearl Harbour 2 Days earlier, and the ability of the Japanese Air Force. Attacked by Japanese Bomber and Torpedo Bombers, and in an engagement lasting less than 3 hours both ships were sunk with the loss of 840 lives. A total of over 2300 sailors survived. Admiral Phillips went down with the Prince of Wales. Singapore fell 7 weeks later.

Today’s post was chosen by Francis Mullen, SGWT Battlefield Guide due to his personal connections to Singapore.  Francis always makes a pilgrimage to Kranji CWGC cemetery and memorial when visiting Singapore.  There are 22 known burials of sailors from both ships, who were injured in the brief engagement and either died by the time they reached Singapore or shortly afterwards.

9th December – Post 9 - Cobbers Memorial, Fromelles

The battle of Fromelles – 19/20 July 1916 fought by the 5th Australian Division and the 61st (2nd Midland) Division described as "the worst 24 hours in Australia's entire history". The Australian Division suffered over 5,500 casualties in their first action on the Western Front. The Cobbers Memorial stands in the Australian Memorial Park, perched on the old German front line. It represents Sergeant Simon Fraser who helped recover wounded men from No Mans Land during the battle, it represents strength in adversity and the one thing the Australians had in bucket loads – ‘Mateship’.

 By Paul Colbourne, SGWT Battlefield Guide

8th December - Post 8 - Serre Road No. 2 Cemetery

Guests never fail to comment on the beauty of Commonwealth War Graves Commission (CWGC) cemeteries. It is the story of the soldiers we try to reveal. Here is one shared by team member Nick Saunders. 

For me as a battlefield guide, telling the stories of the men and women who are buried or commemorated on the battlefield is very important. If we know who they were and what happened to them, saying ‘We will remember them’ becomes for me, more meaningful.

 I bring people to the grave of Captain Walter George William Bailey of the Hampshire Regiment, who is buried in Serre Road No.2 Cemetery on the Somme battlefield.

 Walter was born in Bournemouth in 1895. He was educated at Bournemouth Grammar School for Boys. After leaving school he went to Queens College, Cambridge. He had decided he wanted to take Holy Orders and go into the church. He was an active supporter of St John’s Church at Boscombe.

Whilst at Cambridge he was a member of the University Officer Training Corps. On the outbreak of war, instead of finishing his degree Walter volunteered to serve in the army. He was commissioned and posted to the newly formed 15th Battalion the Hampshire Regiment. This was one of two service battalions, known unofficially as the ‘Pompey Pals’, raised by the Mayor of Portsmouth.

 In December 1915, Walter married Miss Emeline Jane Webster in St John’s Church, Boscombe. 

In May 1916, the battalion was posted to France. By September 1916 the battalion had moved to the Somme area and on the 12th of September went into the front line west of Delville Wood. By now Walter Bailey was a captain and a company commander.

The battalion was part of 122nd Brigade part of Fortieth Division which was tasked with the capture of the village of Flers on the 15th of September 1916. History was made on that day as it was the first ever use of tanks in battle.

 The war diary and the regimental history record that is was during the latter stages of the battle when the battalion attempted to capture Flers Trench that Captain Bailey, the last surviving Company Commander was killed.

 That evening the 15th Hampshires were relieved and went onto reserve. Total casualties were 292 killed, wounded and missing. This included eight officers killed and five missing.

Captain Bailey’s wife Emeline was informed that her husband had been killed but that his body was missing. On the 19th of November 1916 his daughter Margaret Emeline Bailey was born.

 Post war, Walter’s wife and his mother visited Flers and started to look for Walter’s body. They were shown around the battlefield by one or two survivors from the battalion. They spoke to local farmers and land owners and frequently wrote to the CWGC, then Imperial asking for any information on the bodies of British officers located in the area.

 In December 1930 people searching for metal and items of scrap value on the battlefield found a body. There were captain’s pips, a Hampshire badge and a wedding ring as identification. The body was buried in Serre Road No.2 Cemetery.

 The CWGC wrote to Emeline and asked her what the inscription was inside the ring. Emeline went to Mr Meader, the jewellers in Boscombe and obtained a statement from him describing the ring and the inscription he had engraved inside it. It was ‘From Lena. Dec 8 1915.’ With this information along with the captains rank pips and the Hampshire Regiment badge, the CWGC identified Captain Bailey. He had initially been named on the Thiepval memorial. His name was erased and a new stone bearing Walter’s name was placed on the grave. The epitaph reads ‘God is Love’.

 The love and perseverance of his wife and mother helped to identify Walter when his body was found.